Char de Vasquez’s Amazing Tortilla Soup

Diners assemble their own soup at the table.

Many years ago, my dear friend, Char, taught me how to make tortilla soup in the style that she had learned in her previous life in Mexico. When she taught me, I had never had a tortilla soup, and one could not find one in the US in a restaurant. Over the years, as Mexican food has become more mainstream, I have seen a variety of tortilla soups on menus, but have never had one as beautiful or as simple and pure as the one that Char taught me to make. Thank you, Char, for introducing me to “real” tortilla soup. It is a favorite for my whole family.

Unlike many restaurant versions of this soup, Char’s is a broth-based soup. The broth, and soup are quite simple; it is the canvas against which one splashes colors of paint, and fresh flavors. Because the diners assemble their own soups, to their own tastes, every person has a soup of their own creation with the exact degree of spiciness they desire.

As with most of my recipes, there are easier and harder ways to make this. I make a quick version during the week using canned broth and tomatoes, and a more involved version on the weekends. Either way, it is always delicious.

Broth ingredients:

6 chicken legs
2 carrots, chunked
1 onion, quartered
2 cloves of smashed garlic
2 stalks of celery w/ greens
Fresh and/or dried herbs (parsley, cilantro, oregano, thyme are good)
Salt
Pepper corns

Soup ingredients:

1 c. small pasta (shells, alphabet, stars, orzo, etc.), toasted
1/2 a medium onion diced
1/2 tsp roasted ground cumin
3T fresh Mexican oregano, (or a tsp of dried).
2 pan-roasted, peeled and pureed tomatoes (or substitute a 1 lb. can of fire roasted tomatoes that have been pureed.
2 to 3 cups of chicken (use leg meat if you made broth, or throw in leftover chicken meat)

Make the broth: Of course, home made broth is the best, but if you don’t have time to make a simple chicken broth, use a high quality prepared broth! We like to make our broth as follows:

Put six chicken legs in a deep pot. Add a couple of whole carrots, an onion, some garlic, a bunch of fresh or dried herbs, and any other veggies you have in your fridge that need to be used up. Cover with water (6-8 cups of water). Add about a teaspoon of salt, and some whole peppercorns. Boil  and simmer for 30 minutes, until the chicken meat is pulling away from the bones. Remove the legs and set aside to cool. Strain the broth and reserve. Note: you should have 6 to 8 cups of broth an the end. If you don’t have enough broth, supplement with prepared broth, or simply add water and seasoning as needed!

Make fried corn tortilla strips: Heat about an inch of vegetable oil in a heavy skillet. While it is getting hot, cut a stack of tortillas into thin strips. You can play with the thickness, depending on what you find you like. When the oil is hot, place a handful of strips into the oil, and fry until crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Drain the fried corn tortilla strips on paper towel.

Make the soup: Toast pasta in a skillet. I know it sounds a little weird, but this is important; toasting the pasta gives the final product a toasty flavor–go figure! Just throw pasta into a dry skillet over medium heat. Stir continuously until the pasta begins to turn pink. At this stage, immediately dump pasta into a bowl, and set aside. If you leave it in the pan it might burn. I know, because I have done this more than one time!

If you are roasting your tomatoes, put them in your heavy skillet and turn and burn the skin. You can also do this under the broiler. The main thing is you want them to get all black and burned on the outside, but not too cooked. Afterward, you peel them and puree them.

In a soup pot, sauté the diced onions in a bit of oil, add the herbs. Add toasted pasta, pureed tomatoes, chicken, and add broth. Let simmer for about ten minutes or until the pasta is cooked. Adjust seasoning.

Let the broth cook until the pasta is done.

Accoutrements:

Must have items:
Fried corn tortilla strips
Quartered limes
Cilantro
Roasted and peeled peppers (green, jalapeños, serrano, fresno, or other spicy pepper), diced or cut into thin strips.

Optional add-ins:
Avocado
Radishes
Shredded cabbage
Sour cream or yogurt
Cheese
Salsa
Whatever else you think would be good

Peppers, lime, and cilantro are the most important add-ins for the table, but the sky is the limit.

Shrimp and Chicken Jambalaya

I make my Jambalaya partly on the stove, then finish it in the oven, although it takes a bit longer to cook, I find the even heat yields a better result.  This recipe calls for tasso, which can be hard to come by, but bacon makes a suitable substitute. If you have time, you can make your own stock with chicken bones and shrimp shells. I don’t always do this though, since I usually make Jambalaya when I want to have a one pot meal in a hurry.

Shrimp and Chicken Jambalaya

Seasoning Mix:  1/4 tsp cayenne, 3/4 tsp white pepper, 1 tsp kosher salt, 1/4 tsp thyme, 1/2 tsp rubbed sage, 1/4 tsp dried basil, 1/2 tsp black pepper

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

1/4 cup diced andouille sausage

1/4 cup diced tasso

1/2 cup diced onion

1/2 cup diced bell pepper

1/2 cup diced celery

1/2 cup diced fresh tomatoes (you can also used canned instead)

1/2 cup tomato sauce

3/4 cup long grain rice

1 3/4 cup chicken stock (optionally homemade with a shrimp shell infusion)

1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

2 Tbsp minced fresh garlic

1/2 cup diced chicken (great way to use leftover chicken)

1 1/2 cup raw medium shrimp, peeled, tail on.

1 Tbsp finely chopped Italian parsley

3 Tbsp finely sliced green onions

 

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Onion, celery, and bell pepper are called the Holy Trinity in Cajun and Creole cooking. Mix these ingredients together.

In a cast iron dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat, add the andouille and tasso, and cook until it just starts to brown. Add half of the Holy Trinity, cook until the vegetables are tender. Add the diced tomatoes and tomato sauce, and cook for a minute or two until bubbling. Add the rice and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly. Add the stock, the remaining Holy Trinity, seasoning mix, Worcestershire, and garlic. Adjust seasoning to your liking. Add the chicken, stir well and pop the pot into preheated oven. Bake uncovered for 25 minutes. Stir in the raw shrimp, parsley, green onions. Cook until shrimp are done–about 10 minutes. Serve with a crunchy loaf of French bread. Garnish with green onions and parsley.

I like to have a simple green salad with this, but it is really a one-pot meal.

Serves 2-3